DAY 2: WHY LEAVE?

April 14,2006: day 2 of my vacation to Shanghai – Beijing. I woke up rather early that day, sometime around 0530, which is way before our tour’s common wake up call at 0700. Well, I’m always the early riser but somehow this has more to do with me being excited about the trip. I peered out of the window from my hotel room and saw a group of people doing Tai – Chi across the street and at the stadium. Oh, I really like to join them but I can’t since I don’t know how to get there. There is a fly over in between the hotel and the stadium and the road doesn’t have a pedestrian sign (I might be caught jaywalking if I did cross it) and there is no pedestrian bridge nearby. It is therefore with a heavy heart that I dropped the idea altogether. I went to have breakfast after my morning “rituals” and happen to meet up with the geneticist and her parents and had breakfast together. The breakfast buffet at Huating is quite sumptuous when compared to the breakfast I had at Beijing Nikko Century Hotel. The former has more variety to offer than the latter. I had a lively chat with the senior citizen (the geneticist’s father) over breakfast. Our topic of the day is the pace of life in Shanghai including the pace of their work and action. People in Shanghai like those in Hong Kong work fast and they walk fast also. By comparison, the pace in Manila would be somewhat “leisurely” if not tortuously slow. We left the hotel at around 0900 to continue our tour over Shanghai. Our first stop is the Silk Factory, where we will be shown how the silk is being manufactured as well as the making of quilt. Well, on the surface, the tour appears to be a factory visit or a plant visit but in reality it is one of the many shopping expeditions that were stuffed in our tour (part of tour package actually) and unfortunately, for me, I happen to HATE shopping! What can I do but to go along and “bear” with it. Our tour guide, Sally (just remembered her name) introduces us to this lovely company guide (I wonder if she is married but I forgot her name) who would be telling us how the entire silk manufacture is done. She first introduces to us the sericulture and intimidated that the secret to a “beautiful” silk is in the Mulberry leaf that is being fed to the silk worm (her English is good!). The worm then forms a cocoon and is of two types. The first type is the single worm cocoon. These cocoons have “heads”, where one can “pick up” the fine strands when the cocoon is soaked in hot water. 5 – 7 of these cocoons’ strands are intertwined to form a silk thread. The second of cocoon are those formed with two worms. Here, one cannot find the “head” to pull the string from. Instead, the cocoon is “cooked” and torn. Our guide actually commented that the twin worm cocoons are “romantic” because the two are tied together for the rest of their life eventually die together “till death do them part”. Her words actually sent shivers up my spine not that I abhor the idea of being together till death us part but the idea of dying. Isn’t it being together and living happily ever after sounds more Romantic than say dying together in a hot bath (more like boiling bath)? Anyway, once the cocoon is torn, it is then stretch and pulled while it is still soft and worn and stretch further over a wooden arc. The guide ask for a volunteer to do the “stretching” and the doctor volunteered and dang, that thing is tough for she could barely pulled it over the arc. The lady worker doing that task must be pretty strong to be able to do that. Around 5 “stretched cocoons are overlaid on top of each other at the arc. 4 female workers then pull those stacked “stretched” cocoons in different directions. This is to stretch it into the size of the quilt. About 5 – 10 layers make one quilt. Again, the guide asks for 4 volunteers to “pull” the “stretched” cocoons. 3 barely pulled it because it was tough but the geneticist manages to tear it (dang, she’s that strong). After the “little” show, comes the sales talk about their quality and the advantage of having a silk quilt over a cotton quilt. The silk quilt is warm during winters but cool during summer (Yup! She’s right on that. I put my hands underneath the sheet and felt it) plus it is non – allergenic. The end. Now, comes the shopping session (Oh, I so hate shopping!). Sat at the lounge the whole time (like more than half an hour) along with some of the male members of the group. Actually, I don’t mind “sitting” nor do I mind listening to somebody’s talk as long as I could learn a thing or two but when somebody starts to diatribe about his married life, well, that is another story entirely. Trust me, it’s boring and quite sickening. I excused myself the moment I saw an opening and wander around. Eventually, I bought two CDs on classical Chinese music (I’m into classical music). One titled “River” (which I recently discovered to be defective) and the other, “Song of the Mei Garden (Mei Yuan Yin). The latter contains two of my favorites, Mei Yuan Yin and Kwang Lin Xan, which if my memory serves me right is the oldest Chinese music, having been composed sometime during the Han dynasty (ca 200BC). Spent 42 RMB on it (Dang, these people don’t even issue receipts!). Anyway, after a long wait, we went to the local bar district. This is the place where one can fine turn of the century buildings and from the number and kind of establishments, it appears to me that this place is to host to a vibrant night life except that there wasn’t much of a “life” when I was there (because it’s in the morning). The first colonial building that we saw was purportedly owned by Jacky Chan (according to Sally). Fine piece of architecture I would and well preserved too. Anyway, Sally gave us 15 minutes to explore the area (didn’t remember the name of the street) and take pictures. We split up into groups and I joined with the geneticist and her parents since I’m traveling alone. I did take several pictures but largely hold back because I am keeping it (memory space) for the Great Wall. There was an area more like a plaza where one can find Starbucks. There is nothing to see at the plaza but the surrounding buildings (including where Starbucks is in) had patios at the second and third floor lined up with coffee tables and chairs. Because of its westerly (direction) orientation, I could only imagine what the view would be like during sunset when one is sitting at the patio sipping coffee and overlooking at the plaza. Pretty nice I suppose if not romantic. Anyway, the entire group met up 15 minutes later at Starbucks where Sally was waiting. The first thing she told us was that she has just spent the first of the 200 cups of Starbucks that her salary could afford. So that is how Shanghai people measure their salary, by the number of Starbucks that they could drink (her salary is about 3 – 4000RMB). Using Starbucks as a GDP (Gross Domestic Product, a economic growth indicator) leading indicator? Not a bad idea at all. At least, it was better than the Philippines where the leading indicator is the number of cases of San Miguel Beer being drowned (according to my macroeconomics professor at MBA). So I supposed that if you’re in Shanghai and you wanted to know a person’s salary but felt awkward to “ask” directly, we could instead politely ask for the number of Starbucks that his or she could afford (Starbucks tall size cost 20RMB). Well, going back, we next went to the People’s Square, which is an open park beside the Shanghai Museum of Arts. The place is actually quite pleasant and peaceful, a piece of green in an ocean of concrete that is Shanghai. Nice place for an early morning jog because of the clean air, and the wide streets plus there is a lot of people around. On our way back to the bus, we saw a flock of white doves on the ground feeding and a lot of kids (and grown ups too) surrounding it, playing with the birds just like in one of the American parks. Oh, what a beautiful scene, coming from where I‘m from, these are the scenes that I could only “see” on TV. I could understand why Megan wanted to chase after the birds, for I too wanted to do so but we refrain from doing so because of our fear for the dreaded bird flu. I mean we don’t know if those birds carry the flu virus but better be on the safe side than be sorry. Too bad though. Anyway, we finally proceeded to have our lunch, one of the 3 memorable lunches I had during my vacation. The place is called Basher and is owned by a Brazilian Chef, Chef Carlos. The restaurant model is a eat – all – you – can buffet type. They have a buffet table filled with great dishes of around 10. The sweets and fruit section are somewhat “few” and left to be desired but the main course of the buffet are the grills that is being serve by attendants at the tables. Chef Carlos himself led the attendants and serves his freshly grilled meats at our tables. Once at the table, we are to get a tong and grab hold of a piece of the grilled meat and the attendant would slice that piece of meat off for you. Dang! They had Angus beef, Shawarma beef, tenderloin beef, lamb meat, pork casserole, roast pork, ham, shrimp balls, fish (it never reached our table because it was “finished off” way before it reached us) and others. Dang! It was so delicious and everybody including me got so full that we actually had to beg Chef Carlos to stop serving us because we can’t ate another bite (with food like that, it’s no wonder that I’d gained 4 kilos during my entire stay)! After that sumptuous feast at Basher, we next went to see the port area located at the British section of Old Shanghai, where we took the cruise down the Pudong River the night before. There we saw the magnificent buildings we saw during the cruise. We took some pictures. After a little while, we crossed the street to the other side to the infamous (in my book) Nanjing East road, the shopping district of Shanghai. I so hate shopping! (Actually, I was thinking about drawing up a nuptial agreement with my future wife regarding shopping. The agreement would go like “never drag me to shopping unless it’s an emergency such as my clothes couldn’t fit because I’ve gotten too fat or somebody stole all my clothes and I’m left with the underwear I’m wearing. Otherwise, don’t even think about it!”) I really couldn’t understand the logic behind shopping. What’s the big deal anyway with shopping? Why buy something you don’t need? Enough with the hypothetical crap, as usual, I’ve teamed up with the geneticist and her parents and we’d gone window – shopping and also to look for mitten as my hands are freezing (got info from Anthony it was snowing in Beijing a couple of days ago). To my disgust, all of the stores are selling spring clothes in a weather where the temperature is 8oC?! I hate shopping! After waiting for what seems like eternity for the trio of bargain hunters to meet up with us from their expedition, we finally went to visit the Yu Garden, where the adventure of the day begins. The Yu Garden is located at the old Cheng Huang Miao district. Cheng Huang in Chinese means “City God”. In ancient China, all walled towns and cities has one Cheng Huang Miao. It is a local deity that protects the city from natural disaster and brings in prosperity. The area contains some of the oldest house in Shanghai, mainly Ching dynasty era architecture. To see one of those buildings is exciting enough but to actually see an entire neighborhood? Now that is quite a marvelous sight. However, nobody lives on those ancient abodes anymore, all of them are stores and restaurants. Capitalism definitely has seeped into China. The Yu Garden, the objective of our trip, is at the center of the district. In fact, I think the entire district was built around the garden. Once I got in the Yu Garden, I was immediately taken aback by its beauty. It is simply indescribable (even at my standard). Words are insufficient to describe it’s beauty. I have never seen anything like it. The closest comparison that I could think of is that the Yu Garden is the Chinese version of the Garden of Eve, a paradise on Earth. Indeed, the official who built this garden during the Ming dynasty intended it as a retirement house for his parents, so that they may forget the ills of the world. Indeed, the place exudes that tranquility, that harmony, that balance. Getting inside the garden was like being transported to another world cut off from the old world. No noise from the street just outside its walls. Ahhhh, I wish I lived here! No wonder this garden survived the ravages of war and occupation, for the beauty that is the Yu Garden conquered the conqueror. The British and the Japanese warlords made this place their official residence. The Yu Garden is not only a rare architectural gem but is also a still shot of ancient Chinese culture. Being the historian, it couldn’t escape my eyes the intricate sculpture and carvings and what it represents. Very few visitors pay attention to the roof of the buildings. For at the top of the buildings, one could see sculptural depiction of religious and mythical themes, of ancient heroes and villains, of gods and mortal men. The most famous of the roof carvings is the Dragon roof over the walls. The length of the Dragon roof extends to like 15 – 20 feet(?). in ancient China, the Dragon is the symbol of imperial authority and only the Emperor could use it. To use it was tantamount to usurpation of imperial power and therefore deemed as a declaration of rebellion. When the Ming emperor learned of the roof design of the garden, he was furious and summoned the official to explain. The official answered that the design is not a Dragon but something else. Pressed to explain, the official said the Dragons has 4 claws, the beast on my wall on the other hand has only 3 claws. Therefore, that beast is no dragon and the Emperor actually acquiesced to the explanation. Somewhere in the middle of the garden was a very old Ginko Biloba tree. It was 400 years old! Surprisingly, it is still sturdy. Oh I could just wonder, how many generations of children has played under its leaf? How many children in all those years have climbed its trunk? If I could only touch it (it was fenced off because it is considered a 5 star or was it 4 star cultural treasure), I could surely feel the touch of those people far remove from my time. As I was standing there in the middle of the garden, I could dream what would it be like living in a place like this. Standing in the middle of the garden basking under the sunlight of the spring sun. Breathing the fresh air and inhaling the fragrant scent of the flowers and all the while listening to a quite classical music like the Mei Yuan Yin. And in the afternoon, sit beside the pond, enjoying a cup of tea and reading a nice book. Oh, paradise! However, all good things always have to come to an end. As I stepped out of the garden as our tour of the place ends, the gates immediately closed behind me for we are the last of the visitors for the day. Somehow, I felt a sense of regret. Regret that I leave. Why leave? Can’t help but murmur to myself that someday I’m going to buy that place! The geneticist apparently having overheard what I said, quipped, “but it’s not for sale”. To which I replied with a sigh, “Yes, you’re right”. She then suggested that “why not built one like it?” Now, why I didn’t think of that? Sure, I could! I just need an acre of land, built a few ancient Chinese houses, dig a pond, plant a few Ginko Biloba tree, embellish some coral reefs, and then add a Dragon on top of the roof. That’s easy. The scene of the temple area just outside the Yu Garden looked surreal to me. For from a distance, it looked like the scene of ancient Chinese life (if you ignore the wardrobes). Ching era houses, crowds of people walking, buying and selling. It is surreal because there are some things that remind you that you’re not in some romantic past but very much in the present like Starbucks! I had a hot chocolate inside Starbucks (remember it’s freezing outside). Cost me 20 RMB for a tall size. Our next stop was to go shopping yet again (I SO HATE SHOPPING!). Sally offered to take us to a warehouse selling fake branded luxury goods (In China, they slapped a 40% luxury tax on all imported luxury brands, little wonder then as to why the “standard” department stores are bereft of shoppers). On our way to the “secret” warehouse, we happened to passed by a street littered with bridal stores and a few blocks later on the same street, pregnant wear stores abound. I cracked a joke then that it is convenient for Shanghai people to start a family since they just had to pass the street starting from the other end by buying bridal wardrobes and at around the block, look for a hotel for the nuptial reception and honeymoon, afterwards, they could continue their journey down the road to shop for pregnant clothes! And if my guess is correct, there is a baby wear up ahead, then the teen wear and so on and so forth. Of course, we didn’t get to see it because we made a turn. Upon arrival at the “secret” place, I volunteered to stay put and keep the driver company but was prevailed upon to join them “to get an experience” whatever that means. And so with reluctance, I went inside the covert store. Dang! The whole place has all sort of fake luxury goods. You name it they have it. Watches, handbags, leather belts, lighters, etc. Gucci, Ferragamo, Tudor are some of the names that I come across that I’m familiar with. Anyway, they didn’t buy anything and so do I (I hate shopping). And so, the owners usher us into another room filled with “better” products. I have poor taste in fashion but according to my tour mates, the quality of the goods is as good as the real thing and so is the price. They are asking for 400 – 500 RMB for a handbag, which translates to roughly 3000 pesos more or less. Again, according to some of my tour mates, the price is exorbitant and is almost the same price as the real thing. Can’t help myself but to sneer at the situation, I actually quipped in Filipino, “Wala yan, mas mura pa sa 168!” (meaning, that’s nothing, it’s cheaper to buy at 168 mall!). To which, I solicited a bout of laughter. And so with my heads high (others are quite disgusted actually at the “charade”), we left the place. We had dinner afterwards, which is good but quite as good as the one we had during lunch. On our way home, I recall the brief visit I had this afternoon at Yu Garden. I was to leave for Beijing early the next day and somehow, I actually wanted to stay. I’m only here for one and half day and although I hated shopping, I find myself surprisingly attracted by Shanghai specifically the Yu Garden. All I ask is for one more day at the Garden but I can’t have it. I had to leave. Why leave? Well, the answer is quite simple; we live on Earth not on paradise and reality bites.